Method and machine for use in shaping uppers over lasts



May 17, 1938. B. JORGENSEN 2,117,330

METHOD AND MACHINE FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed Jan. 14, 1937 3 Sheets-Sheet l lllllmml" nmmuw- May 17, 1938., B. JORGENSEN METHOD AND MACHINE FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed Jan. 14, 1957 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig y 17, 1933- B. JORGENSEN 2,117,330

METHOD AND MACHINE FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Filed Jan. 14, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet I5 a m 4 644 Y Patented May 17, 1938 UNITED STATES METHOD AND MACHINE FOR USE IN SHAP- ING UPPERS OVER LASTS Bernhardt Jorgensen,

Marblehead, Mass, as-

signor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation oi. New Jersey Application January 14,

52 Claims.

over lasts, and is herein illustrated by reference to the pulling over of uppers preparatory to the lasting of their toe ends and other portions, although in various aspects it is not thus limited in its applicability. t

In accordance with one of its objects the invention provides a novel. pulling-over method whereby the upper is first subjected to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end and is then pulled over and fastened to an insole at the sides of the forepart while held under the lengthwise strain, the margin of the toe end of the upper being thereafter released in an unfastened condition. Preferably, as illustrated, the upper is left free at the sides of the forepart until after the completion of the pull at the toe end, so that its side marginal portions may adjust themselves in accordance with the lengthwise strain, after which the upper is drawn tightly over the forepart widthwise and heightwise of the last by gripping and pulling its side margins. To insure substantial uniformity in the straining of the upper lengthwise of the last along both the top and the sides of the last without objectionable distortion of any portion of the upper, the lengthwise pull, as herein shown, is applied all around the end of the toe, the margin of the upper being gripped substantially in a plane throughout the width of the toe end of the last. In accordance, moreover, with the illustrative disclosure the upper at the sides of the forepart is fastened adhesively to the insole, as is convenient in operating on shoes portions, at least, of which are lasted with adhesive, but it will be understood that the upper may be fastened in a different manner if desired. Such fastening of the upper at the sides of the forepart only, especially in operating on shoes of small sizes such as children's shoes, in sures that the upper will remain in a satisfactory pulled-over condition until the toe-lasting operation, the lasting operator being relieved of any necessity for disconnecting the pulled-over upper from the insole at the end of the toe prior to that operation.

The invention further provides a machine for use in the practice of theabove-described method, comprising a novel organization of means for subjecting an upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end and for pulling over the upper at the sides of the last while it is held under the lengthwise strain. The construction shown comprises a toe gripper which grips the margin of the upper outspread substantially in a plane and is moved lengthwise of the last to pull the upper, and side-gripping and overlaying devices which thereafter grip the upper at the sides of the forepart and pull it heightwise of the last and inwardly over the insole and press its margin into position to adhere to the insole while the upper 1937, Serial No. 120,596

is held under strain by the toe gripper. Conveniently and in accordance with one of the novel features of the invention the construction is such that the toe gripper and the devices at the sides of the forepart are operated by the same member, herein shown as a treadle-operated rod, which is movable first to operate the toe gripper and is thereafter movable to operate the side-gripping and overlaying devices, mechanism being provided for connecting these devices to the rod only upon return of the latter toward starting position after operating the toe gripper. To cause the toe gripper to hold the upper under lengthwise strain it is locked against retractive movement by a device which is movable to release it after the upper has been pulled over and fastened at the sides of the forepart.

Various novel features of the invention are also to be recognized in the means provided for pulling the upper over the last and for laying its margin inwardly over the insole at each side of the forepart, whether such means be arranged to act on that particular portion of a shoe or on some other portion. The construction shown comprises a gripper mounted for swinging movement heightwise of the last and an operating lever connected by a link to one of the gripper jaws to effect first a relative upper-gripping movement of the jaws and then a swinging movement of the gripper to pull the upper, the lever and the link serving as a. toggle device movable to a substantially straightened position in thus operating the gripper. The gripper, moreover, is supported on a carrier which is mounted to swing in the same direction as the operating lever to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last, but is locked against such swinging movement during the pulling of the upper heightwise of the last, the carrier being then released and operated by further movement of the lever. As the gripper is carried inwardly over the bottom of the last it has a component of movement heightwise of the last to cause wiping means thereon to press the margin of the upper on the insole. The gripper and the carrier are relatively movable in response to resistance of the shoe to such movement of the gripper heightwise of the last, and the construction shown is further such that in consequence of this relative movement the gripper jaws are caused to relax their grip on the margin of the upper. To insure, moreover, against any objectionable drag of the gripper and its wiping means on the margin of the upper in the return of the parts to starting positions, a device is provided for preventing any reverse relative movement of the gripper and the carrier until after the gripper has been retracted from over the shoe bottom.

The above and other features of the invention, including also novel means for pulling the upper lengthwise of the last and various novel details of construction and combinations of parts, will now be more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view in left-hand side elevation of a machine in which the invention is embodied, with parts of the structure broken away;

Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation of the upper portion of the machine, with parts broken away;

Fig. 3 shows in front elevation the side gripper and parts associated therewith at the left-hand side of the machine, with the parts in the positions which they assume in pulling the upper, the position of the gripper in laying the upper over the insole also being illustrated in broken lines;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 with the shoe in section, showing also a portion of the side gripper at the right-hand side of the machine, with the parts in the positions which they assume in pressing the margin of the upper upon the insole;

Fig. 5 is a vertical central section from front to rear, with the side gripper at the right-hand side of the machine and portions of the shoe support omitted;

Fig. 6 is a view of the upper portion of the machine in left-hand side elevation, with the side grippers omitted, showing the parts in the positions which they assume when the toe gripper is holding the upper under lengthwise strain; and

Fig. '7 shows a shoe after it has been operated upon by the machine.

The machine includes a column 2 on the upper end of which (Fig. 5) is threaded a ring 4 having fast thereon a plate 6. Mounted on the plate 6 is another plate 8 which serves as a support for the upper-pulling and shoe-supporting means hereinafter described. Vertically movable in openings in the plates 6 and 8 is a rod l0 controlled by a treadle l2 (Fig. 1) mounted on a pin I4 on the base of the machine, this rod being movable upwardly by the treadle against the resistance of a spring 16 to operate the upperpulling means. The plate 8 and the parts supported thereon are freely rotatable about the rod ill to permit the shoe and the upper-pulling means to be positioned in any desired relation to the operator.

For supporting the heel end of the last and shoe there is mounted on the plate 8 a block I8 which is adjustable along a guideway in the plate in directions lengthwise of the shoe. The block is held in adjusted position by a spring-pressed pin 20 therein (Fig. 2) arranged to enter any one of a plurality of holes 22 in the plate 8. Vertically adjustable in the block 18 is apost 24 which is held in adjusted position by a springpressed pin 26 (Fig. 1) mounted in the block and arranged to enter any one of a plurality of holes 28 in the post. Mounted on a pin 30 at the upper end of the post 24 for tipping movements in directions lengthwise of the shoe is a block 32 in which is secured a pin 34 arranged to enter the spindle hole in the last. A springpressed pin 36 mounted in the post 24 has a V-shaped upper end arranged to engage the block 32 in a correspondingly shaped recess in the lower end of the block to determine the normal position of the pin 34 while permitting the pin and the block to tip in directions lengthwise of the shoe. The toe end of the shoe is supported on a rubber toe rest 38 fastened to a holder 48 which has a depending stem threaded in a vertical opening in a plate 42 fastened to the upper ends of two arms 44 which are integral at their lower ends with the plate 8. By turning the holder 48 the toe rest 38 may accordingly be adjusted either upwardly or downwardly, and it is held in adjusted position by a pin 46 (Fig. 5) having a rounded end arranged to extend normally into a vertical groove 48 in the stem of the holder 48. The pin 46 is held yieldingly in this groove by a leaf spring 58 fast on the plate 42.

For pulling the upper lengthwise of the last there is provided a toe gripper 52 having a pair of upper-gripping jaws 54 and 56. The jaw 54- is fast on a jaw carrier 58 provided with a pair of spaced downwardly extending arms 68 mounted at their lower ends to swing about a shaft 62 rotatable in bearings in the arms 44. The jaw 56 is supported by screws 64 on one arm 66 of a bell-crank lever 68 mounted to swing about a pin 10 which is supported in two spaced ears of the jaw carrier 58. The screws are threaded in the jaw 56 and extend through enlarged openings in the arm 66 to permit the jaw to assume a parallel relation to the jaw 54 in gripping upper materials of different thicknesses. For determining the normal or starting position of the gripper each of the arms 60 of the jaw carrier 58 is provided at its lower end with a finger 12 arranged to engage a rod 14 mounted in the arms 44, the gripper being held in the position thus determined by a spring-pressed pin 16 mounted in an extension 18 of one of the arms 60 and engaging the rod 14 on the opposite side thereof from the fingers 12. The bell-crank lever 68 is provided with a depending arm which carries at its lower end a. pin 82 arranged to lie in slots formed in the bifurcated upper end of an arm 84 mounted to turn on the shaft 62 between the arms 60. Also mounted on the shaft 62 and secured thereto by a set screw 86 is a bell-crank lever 88 provided with an arm 90 arranged to engage one end of a pin 92 slidingly mounted in the arm 84 and backed up by a spring 94 in the arm, the amount of compression of the spring being adjustable by a hand screw 95. Accordingly, movement of the bell-crank lever 88 in a counterclockwise direction (Fig. 5) serves through the pin 92 and the spring 94 to impart swinging movement to the arm 84 and thereby to swing the bell-crank lever 68 in the direction to carry the jaw 56 toward the jaw 54 to grip the margin of the toe end of the upper materials outspread substantially in a plane, the jaws engaging the materials all around the end of the toe throughout the width of the toe end of the last. A spring 96 connected to a short arm 98 of the bell-crank lever 68 and to :3, lug I08 on one of the arms 60 tends to swing this bell-crank lever in the direction to raise the jaw 56 and accordingly tends also to swing the arm 84 and the bell-crank lever 88 both in clockwise directions, such movements of the parts being limited by engagement of a shoulder I02 on the bell-crank lever 88 with lugs I04 on the arms 68. It will thus be seen that the toe gripper jaws are normally open and that when the bell-crank lever 88 is swung in a counterclockwise direction as above described it serves first to swing the jaw 56 into upper-gripping position against the resistance of the spring 96. Further movement of the bell-crank lever 88 thereafter in the same direction serves through the spring 94 to impart swinging movement to the arms 60 and the gripper jaw carrier 58 in the direction to pull the upper, the spring yield- 2,1 17,sso

ing more or less in response to resistance of the upper to the force of the pull. Such swinging movement of the jaw carrier 58 is effected against the resistance of the spring-pressed pin 16, the fingers 12 being carried away from the rod 14 as illustrated in Fig. 6. It will be evident that since the gripping of the upper and the movement of the gripper to pull the upper are both effected by the action of the bell-crank lever 88 on the arm 84, the force with which the upper is gripped by the jaws 54 and 56 increases as the force of the pull on the upper increases. To insure against any slipping of the upper materials in the gripper jaws the jaw 56- is provided with a plurality of short pins I06 arranged to force portions of the upper materials more or less into corresponding depressions I08 in the jaw 54.

The movement of the bell-crank lever 88 to cause the toe gripper to grip and pull the upper as above described is effected by upward movement of the rod I0 when the operator depresses the treadle I2, the upper end of the rod being arranged to engage and act on an arm IIO of the bell-crank lever, as illustrated in Fig. 6. The toe gripper is thereafter maintained in position to hold the upper under lengthwise strain by a latch I I2 fast on a shaft I I4 which is mounted to turn in bearing members I I6 (Fig. 2) secured on the plate 8. The latch I I2 has a shoulder II8 which is forced under the end of the arm IIO, as soon as the arm is lifted far enough to permit this, by a torsion spring I20 on the shaft I I4. The operator is accordingly permitted to release the treadle I2 with the upper still held under tension by the toe gripper. A handle I22 fast on the shaft H4 is used by the operator to withdraw the latch H2 from the arm H0 and thus permit the toe gripper to release the upper and return to its starting position after the operations on the shoe have been completed.

The pull of the upper on the heel end face of the last serves, through the action of the last on the pin 34, to swing the block 32 and the pin in the direction to force the toe end of the last down on the toe rest 38. This tends to prevent upward movement of the forepart of the last when the upper is pulled at the sides of the forepart as hereinafter described. If desired, moreover, the operator may assist with his hands in preventing the forepart of the last from rising. In order to hold the heel end of the last down on the block 32 there is provided an arm I24 (Fig. 2) mounted to swing laterally of the shoe about a pin I26 on the block I8. At its upper end. this arm is bent toward the shoe and is formed to provide a presser foot or holddown I28 arranged to engage the heel end of the insole when the arm is swung from its idle position (Fig. 2) into the position in which it is shown in Fig. 6. At its lower end the arm I24 is provided with a. lug I30 arranged to rest on the top of a horizontal bar I32 which controls the arm. A spring I34 mounted between the block I8 and the arm I24 tends to swing the arm away from the shoe. The bar I32 is pivotally supported on the upper ends of two parallel links I36 and I38 which are pivotally mounted at their lower ends on the plate 8, and the bar is connected by a link I40 to an arm I42 fast on the previously mentioned shaft 62. Accordingly, when this shaft is turned by the bell-crank lever 88 in operating the toe gripper to pull the upper, the arm I42 through the link I40 causes the two parallel links I36 and I38 to swing in directions to raise the bar I32, so that this bar swings the arm I24 I32 is lowered and the arm I24 is returned to its idle position by the spring I34.

For pulling the upper at the opposite sides of the forepart and for laying its margin inwardly over the insole in position to adhere to the insole there are provided a pair of side grippers I44. Each of these side grippers comprises an uppergripping jaw I46 mounted on one end of a lever I48 extending laterally of the shoe and a cooperating jaw I50 mounted to swing about a pin I52 on the lever I48 and having an upwardly extending tail portion I54. The jaw I46 consists of a plate having a portion I 56 thereof extending in angular relation to its upper-gripping portion to act as a wiper for laying the margin of the upper over the insole and pressing it upon the insole. The jaw has thereon a dovetailed projection I58 curved about an axis extending laterally of the shoe and lying in a correspondingly formed groove in the lever I48 to permit rocking movement of the jaw so that its wiping andpressing portion I56 may adjust itself to the shoe bottom.

Each lever I48 is mounted between its ends to swing in directions heightwise of the shoe about a spindle I60 supported in the upper end of a gripper carrier I62 which is mounted to swing in directions laterally of the shoe about a spindle I64 supported by a plate I66 fast on one of the previously mentioned arms 44. A spring-pressed plunger I60 mounted in the outer arm of the lever I48 and bearing on a shoulder on the carrier I 62 tends to swing the lever in the direction to lower the gripper jaws, movement of the lever in that direction being limited by engagement of the head of a screw I10 in the lever with a portion of the carrier I62. In this manner the initial position of the gripper jaws heightwise of the shoe is adjustably determined. A spring.

I12 connected to the carrier I62 tends to swing the carrier outwardly away from the shoe, the

movement of the carrier in this direction beingbell-crank lever is pivotally connected by a pin I18 to the lower end of a link I the upper end of which is pivotally connected to one end of a short link I82, the other end of the link I82 being pivotally connected to the tail portion I54 of the gripper jaw I 50. A spring I84 bent around the pin I52 and connected to the link I82 tends to swing the jaw I50 away from the jaw I46, such movement of the jaw I 50 being adjustably limited by a stop screw I86 threaded in the tail portion I54 and bearing on the top of the link I82. It will be seen that the upwardly extending arm of the bell-crank lever I16 and the link I80 are in the relation of toggle members and that when the bell-crank leverv is swung in the direction to straighten the toggle the link I80 acts through the short link I82 and the screw I86 to swing the jaw I50 toward the jaw I46 and thus to grip the margin of the upper between the two jaws. When carrying arm of the lever I48 against the resistance of the spring plunger I68 to cause the jaws to pull the upper heightwise of the last, as illustrated in Fig. 3. At the end of this upper-pulling movement the toggle is substantially straight. The lever I48 is locked against reverse swinging movement by a pawl I88 in engagement with ratchet teeth on a plate I90 fast on the lever. The pawl is mounted on the spindle I64 and is urged toward the plate I90 by a spring I92. Initially, however, it is held out of contact with the ratchet teeth by engagement of an end portion of the pin I18 therewith, as illustrated in Fig. 2. The pawl is released by the pin and is forced by the spring I92 into contact with the teeth at the beginning of the operative movement of the bellcrank lever I16.

In the operation of the bell-crank lever I16 to cause the gripper to grip and pull the upper as above described the carrier I62 is locked against swinging movement toward the shoe. For this purpose there is provided a latch I94 in engagement with the head of the previously mentioned screw I14, the latch being fast on a shaft I96 mounted to turn in the carrier I62. Also fast on this shaft is a finger I98, and connected to this finger is a spring 200 which holds the latch normally in operative position, as illustrated in Fig. 2. As the bell-crank lever I16 is operated, one end of the pin I18 moves along a slot 202 in the carrier I62 until, substantially at the end of the upward swinging movement of the gripper, the pin engages the finger I98 and lifts the latch I94, thereby releasing the carrier I62. Substantially at the same time the pin I18 arrives in engagement with the end of a screw 204 in the carrier I62, after which, in the continued movement of the bell-crank lever I16, the pin acts on this screw to swing the carrier toward the shoe against the resistance of the spring I12. In this manner the gripper is carried inwardly over the shoe bottom to lay the margin of the upper over the insole, as illustrated by broken lines in Fig. 3, the pawl I88 as well as the straightened toggle I16, I60 holding the lever I48 against movement in a direction to relax the force of the pull on the upper. It will be evident that by reason of the relation of the gripper jaws to the axis I64 of the swinging carrier I62 the jaws as they are swung inwardly over the shoe bottom have a component of downward movement to press the margin of the upper upon the insole. When such a component of movement of the jaws is no longer possible by reason of resistance of the bottom of the-shoe, a relative movement of the carrier I62 and the gripper about the axis I60 occurs'as the gripper is moved farther inwardly over the shoe bottom by the carrier. In consequence of this relative movement the link I causes such a change of position of the link I82 on which the screw I86 bears as to permit an opening movement of the jaw I50 by the spring I84. Accordingly, the gripper opens somewhat in response to pressure of the shoe thereon as it is moved inwardly over the shoe bottom. This permits the margin of the upper to slip readily out of the gripper jaws so that it is wiped throughout its width over the insole by the wiping portion I56 of the jaw I46, as illustrated in Fig. 4. In the above-mentioned relative movement of the carrier I62 and the gripper the pawl I88 slips over one or more additional ratchet teeth on the plate I90, and accordingly upon reverse movement of the bell-crank lever I16 and the carrier I62 in the return of the parts to starting positions the gripper is lifted from the shoe bottom without any objectionable outward wiping action on the margin of the upper. When the pin I18 arrives nearly at the end of its return movement it engages the pawl I88 and swings the latter out of engagement with the teeth, thus permitting the lever I48 to be returned to its starting position by the spring plunger I68.

For operating both the bell-crank levers I16 to cause the side grippers to grip and pull the upper and-to lay its margin over the insole as above described, there is provided a crossbar 206 con nected by links 208 to the bell-crank levers, each of these links comprising two relatively adjustable parts having interlocking teeth on their opposed faces and held together by a bolt, as illustrated in Fig. 1. Midway between its opposite ends the crossbar 206 is provided with an opening into which extends the upper end of the previously mentioned treadle-operated rod I0. When this rod is raised to operate the toe gripper in the manner previously described it slides upwardly through the opening in the crossbar without any effect on the crossbar, the latter resting upon the top of the plate 8. In response to a second upward movement of the rod I0, however, the crossbar is raised to operate the side grippers, the crossbar being connected to the rod for this purpose by a locking plate 2I0 slidingly mounted in the crossbar and arranged to enter a groove 2I2 in the rod. For controlling the plate 2I0 there is provided a forked arm 2 I4 which extends downwardly at opposite sides of the bell-crank lever 88, the lower ends of the forked portion of this arm lying in slots 2I5 in the opposite sides of the locking plate 2I0. At its upper end the arm 2I4 is secured to an angular block 2| 6 pivotally mounted by means of a pin 2I8 on a bracket 220 fast on the previously mentioned plate 42. A spring 222 tends to swing this block and the arm in the direction to force the plate 2I0 into the groove 2I2 in the rod I0. Initially, however, the plate 2I0 is maintained in a retracted position, as illustrated in Fig. 5, by a pin 224 carried by the bell-crank lever 88 and engaging edge faces 226 on the arm 2I4. This permits the rod I0 to be raised to operate the toe gripper without operating the side grippers. In this movement of the rod the pin 224 is carried to a position opposite inclined faces 228 on the arm 2I4, as illustrated in Fig. 6, so that when the rod I0 is lowered to its starting position the plate 2I0 will be forced into the groove 2I2 by the action of the spring 222. Accordingly, when the rod is next raised by the treadle it acts to raise the crossbar 206 and thereby to operate the side grippers, the plate 2I0 sliding upwardly along the arm 2I4. The plate 2I0 is operated to disconnect the rod I0 from the crossbar by the action of the pin 224 on the arm 2I4 in the return of the bell-crank lever 88 to its starting position upon its release by the latch Prior to the use of the machine on a shoe the shoe upper materials and an insole will have been assembled on a last and a suitable adhesive will have been applied to the insole and the marginal portions of the upper materials, at least along the sides of the forepart. The shoe materials may or may not be held in assembled relation to the last by one or more fastenings, the drawings showing a child's shoe in which no such fastening is used. After mounting the last with its shoe materials on the pin 34, the operator positions the margin of the toe end of the upper materials outspread substantially in a plane between the toe gripper laws 54 and 68 and then depresses the treadle i2. As a result of such depression of the treadle the. toe gripper grips the margin of the upper and then applies to the upper a lengthwise pull to draw it tightly about the heel end of the last and to stretch it lengthwise as much as required at the top of the forepart and along the sides of the last. At the same time the holddown I24 is swung into operative position over the bottom of the heel end of the shoe. The latch 2 acts automatically to lock the toe. gripper against retractive movement, thus permitting the operator to release the treadle while the upper remains under lengthwise strain. As the treadleoperated rod l0 returns to its initial position it is connected automatically by the locking plate 2 ill to the crossbar 206 which operates the side grippers. After arranging the margin of the upper materials at the sides of the forepart between the jaws of the side grippers I the operator again depresses the treadle. In this operation the side grippers first grip and pull the upper heightwise of the last, as illustrated in Fig. 3, and are then carried inwardly over the bottom of the last by their swinging carriers I62, the gripper jaws having a component of downward movement toward the bottom of the last. In response to resistance of the shoe to such downward movement of the jaws they relax their pressure on the margin of the upper and thus permit it to slip readily out from between the jaws as the grippers are forced farther inwardly to wipe the upper over the insole and press it more firmly into position to adhere to the insole. The operator then releases the treadle to permit the side grippers to be returned to their starting positions. As the grippers are retracted from over the bottom of the shoe the locking pawls I 88 insure that they will be lifted in such manner as to avoid any objectionable outward wiping action on the margin of the upper. After the side grippers have been returned to their starting positions the operator releases the toe gripper by means of the handle I22 and then removes the shoe from the machine. The shoe may thereafter be operated upon, for example,

by a lasting machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent No. 2,075,852, granted on April 6, 1937 upon an application of mine.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in 'methods of pulling uppers over lasts preparatory to the lasting of their toe ends, which consists in subjecting an upper on a last to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end, pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart and fasteningit in those locations to an insole on the last while maintaining it under lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

2. That improvement in methods of pulling uppers over lasts preparatory to the lasting of their toe ends, which consists in subjecting an upper on a last to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end, gripping and pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart after the completion of the pull at its toe end and fastening its margin at the sides of the forepart adhesively to an insole on the last while maintaining the upper under the lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

8'. That improvement in methods of pulling uppers over lasts preparatory to the lasting of their toe ends, which consists in subjecting an upper on a last to lengthwise strain by a pull applied to its margin substantially all around the end of the toe, thereafter gripping and pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart and fastening its margin in those locations to an insole on the last while maintaining the upper under lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

4. That improvement in methods of pulling uppers over lasts preparatory to the lasting of their toe ends, which consists in gripping the mar gin of the toe end of an upper on a last substan-- tially in a plane throughout the width of the toe end of the last and subjecting the upper to lengthwise strain by a pull applied in that location, thereafter pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart and fastening its margin in those locations to an insole on the last while maintaining the upper under the lengthwise strain by the pull at its toe end, and thereafter releasing the margin of the toe end of the upper in an unfastened condition.

5. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, means for subjecting an upper on a last to lengthwise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for gripping and pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart after the completion of the pull at its toe end and for fastening it at the sides of the forepart to an insole on the last while still maintaining the upper under said lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

6. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, means for subjecting an upper on a last to length wise strain by a pull applied at its toe end, and means for thereafter gripping and pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart and for laying its margin in those locations inwardly over an insole on the last and securing it adhesively to the insole while still maintaining the upper under said lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

'7. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, and side-gripping and overlaying devices arranged to grip the margin of the upper at the sides of the forepart after the completion of the pull by said toe gripper and to pull the upper over the last and lay its margin inwardly over an insole on the last while the upper is still held under tension by the toe gripper.

8. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, means for subjecting an upper on a last first to lengthwise strain only by a pull applied at the margin of its toe end, and means for pulling the upper over the last at the sides of the forepart after the completion of the pull at its toe end and for laying its margin at the sides of the forepart inwardly over an insole on the last while 1 still maintaining the upper under said lengthwise strain by the pull applied at its toe end.

9. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts,

' a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the inwardly over the insole while the upper is still held under tension by the toe gripper.

'10. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last substantially in a plane and movable lengthwise of the last to pull the upper, and side-gripping and overlaying devices arranged to grip the margin of the upper at the sides of the forepart and to pull the upper over the last and lay its margin inwardly over an insole on the last while the upper is still held under tension by the toe gripper.

11. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, means for locking the toe gripper to maintain the pull on the upper, and side-gripping and overlaying devices movable while the toe gripper is thus locked to pull the upper over the last and lay its margin inwardly over an insole on the last at the sides of the forepart.

12. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the we end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side-gripping and overlaying devices arranged to grip the margin of the upper at the sides of the forepart and to pull the upper over the last and lay its margin inwardly over an insole on the last, and

means movable by the operator first to operate said toe gripper and then to operate said sidegripping and overlaying devices while the toe gripper is stationary with the upper under length-v wise strain. I

13. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of 6116 toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sidesthereof, a member movable by the operator to operate said toe gripper, and means for operating the side grippers by another movement of said member only after return of the member toward starting position.

14. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sides thereof, a member movable by the operator to operate said toe gripper, a device for locking the toe gripper to hold the upper under tension, and means for connecting said member to the side grippers only after return of the member toward starting position for operating the side grippers by another movement of said member.

15. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sides thereof, a treadle, and means for operating the toe gripper by one depression of said treadle and for thereafter operating the side grippers by a second depression of the treadle after its return toward starting position.

16. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts,

a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sides thereof, a treadle-operated rod movable to operate the toe gripper by a depression of the treadle, and means for connecting said rod to the side grippers after return of the rod and treadle toward starting position for operating the side grippers by a second depression of the treadle.

1'7. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sides thereof, a treadle-operated rod movable to operate the toe gripper, and a springcontrolled device arranged to connect said rod to the side grippers for operating them only upon return of the rod toward starting position after operating the toe gripper.

18. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts,

' a toe gripper arranged to grip the margin of the toe end of an upper on a last and movable to subject the upper to lengthwise strain, side grippers for pulling the upper over the last at the sides thereof, a crossbar connected to both side grippers for operating them, a trea-dle-operated rod. movable relatively to said crossbar to operate the toe gripper, a spring-controlled device for connecting said rod to the crossbar to operate the crossbar by another movement of the rod, and means for maintaining said device in inoperative position until the rod is moved to operate the toe gripper and for then releasing the device to permit it to connect the rod tothe crossbar upon a return movement of the rod.

19. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws mounted for movement heightwise of the last to pull the upper, and a toggle device movable to a substantially straightened position to effect first a relative movement of said jaws to grip the upper and then to operate said support to pull the upper in response to resistance of the upper 'to further relative movement of the jaws.

20. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws mounted for swinging movement heightwise of the last to pull the upper, one of said jaws being pivotally mounted on said support for swinging movement toward the other jaw to grip the upper, a bellcrank lever, and a link connected to one arm of said bell-crank lever and arranged to act on said swinging jaw to efiect by the movement of the bell-crank lever first the gripping of the upper by the jaws and then a swinging movement of said support to pull the upper in response to resistance of the upper to further upper-gripping movement of the swinging jaw.

21. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last and pulling the upper, one of said jaws being mounted for swinging movement toward the other jaw to grip the upper and having a tail portion at the opposite side of its axis from its upper-gripping portion, a link pivotally connected to said tail portion, a screw threaded in said tail portion and engaging one side of said link, and means for operating said link to impart upper-gripping movement to the swinging jaw through contact of the link with the screw, the screw being adjustable to vary the initial position of the swinging jaw.

22. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, one of the jaws being mounted for swinging movement toward the other jaw to grip the upper and having a tail portion at the opposite'side of'its axis from its upper-gripping portion, a link pivotally connected to said tail portion and extending in a direction transverse to the direction of the pull on the upper, a screw extending heightwise of the last in the tailportion of the swinging jaw and engaging one side of said link, and means connected to said link and movable heightwise of the last to eii'ect first an upper-gripping movement of the swinging jaw and then a movement of said support to pull the upper through contact of the linkwith said screw.

23. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last, the gripper being mounted on said carrier for swinging movement heightwise of'the last to pull the upper, a reciprocatory operating member, and means for first swinging the gripper to pull the upper by movement of said member and for then operating the gripper carrier by further movement of said member in the same direction.

24. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts. a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the grinper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper. an operatin member movable in the same direction as said gripper carrier, and means for operating said gripper to pull the u per heightwise of the last by movement of said member, the gripper carrier being movable to carry the gripper inwardl,v over the bottom of the last in response to further movement of said member.

25. In a machine for shaping'uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, an operatin member movable in the same direction as said gripper carrier, means for operating said gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last by movement of said member, a device for locking the gripper carrier against operative movement as the gripper is thus operated, and means for operating said locking device to release the carrier and for then operating the carrier to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last by.

further movement of said member.

26. In a. machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, an operating lever, means for operating the gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last by movement of said lever, the gripper carrier being movable to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last in response to further movement of said lever, and means for preventing such operation of the gripper carrier until after the operation of the gripper to pull the upper.

27. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, a lever mounted for movement in the same direction as said grip- ;per carrier, connections between said lever and the gripper for operating the gripper to pull the upper by movement of the lever relatively to the gripper carrier, and means for thereafter operating the gripper carrier to carry the pper inwardly over the bottom of the last y further movement of said lever.

28. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin 0! an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, an operating lever, and a link connection between said lever and the gripper arranged to form with the lever a toggle device movable toward a straightened position for operating the gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last while the gripper carrier is stationary, the gripper carrier being thereafter movable to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last by further movement of said lever.

29. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, a lever mounted for movement in the same direction as said gripper carrier, a link connection between said lever and the gripper arranged to form with the lever a toggle device movable toward a straightened position for operating the gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last, a device for locking the gripper carrier against operative movement as the gripper is thus operated, and means for operating said locking device to release the carrier and for then operating the carrier to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last by further movement of said lever.

30. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws mounted for swinging movement helghtwise of the last to pull the upper, a gripper carrier on which said support is thus mounted, said carrier being mounted for swinging movement to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last, an operating member mounted for swinging movement in the same direction as said carrier; and means for swinging said support heightwise of the last to. pull the upper by movement of said member and for thereafter swinging said carrier to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last by further movement of said member.

31. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws ior gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws mounted for movement heightwise of the last to pull the upper, a gripper carrier on which said support is thus mounted, said carrier being movable to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last, a reciprccatory operating member, and means for first effecting relative movement of said jaws to grip the upper by movement of said operating member and for then operating said support to pull the upper by further movement of said member, said gripper carrier being thereafter movable to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last by still further movement of said member.

32. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a. pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a support for said jaws mounted for movement heightwise of the last to pull the upper, a gripper carrier on which said support is thus mounted, said carrier being movable about an axis to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last, an operating member mounted for swinging movement in the same direction as said carrier, and means for efiecting by movement of said operating member first a relative movement of said jaws to grip the upper, then a movement of said support to pull the upper heightwise of the last, and thereafter a movement of said gripper carrier to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last.

33. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, an operating member movable in the same direction as said gripper carrier, means for operating said gripper to pull the upper heightwise ofthe last by movement of said member and for thereafter operating the gripper carrier by further movement of said member, and a device controlled by said member for locking the gripper against retractive movement heightwise of the last after the pulling of the upper.

34. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier movable to carry said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last and relatively to which the gripper is movable height wise of the last to pull the upper, an operating member movable in the same direction as said gripper carrier, means for operating said gripper to pull the upper heightwise of the last by movement of said member, the gripper carrier being movable to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last in-response to further movement of said member and being thereafter reversely movable to carry the gripper away from over the bottom of the last, and a device arranged to lock said gripper against retractive movement heightwise of the last after the pulling of the upper and to release it'only after its movement away from over the bottom of the last.

35. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper for gripping the margin of an upper on a last, a gripper carrier relatively to which the gripper is movable heightwise of the last to pull the upper, said gripper carrier being movable to carry the gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last with a component of movement heightwise of the last toward its bottom face and being thereafter reversely movable to carry the gripper away from over the bottom of the last, and a device'arranged to lock said gripper against retractive movement heightwise of the last relatively to the gripper carrier after the pulling of the upper and to hold it thus locked until after its movement away from over the bottom of the last.

36. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a device for gripping an upper and pulling it over a last and for laying the margin of the upper inwardly over and upon an insole on the last, a carrier supporting said device and movable to force it inwardly over the insole while pressing the margin of the upper upon the insole and thereafter reversely movable to carry the device away from over the shoe bottom, said device and carrier being relatively movable in response to pressure of the bottom of the shoe on the device, and means for preventing'reverse relative movement of said device and carrier until after the device has been retracted from over the shoe bottom by reverse movement of the carrier.

37. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a device for gripping an upper and pulling it over a last and for laying the margin of the upper inwardly over and upon an insole on the last, a carrier supporting said device and mounted for swinging movement to carry the device inwardly over the insole while imparting to the device a movement heightwise of the last to press the margin of the upper upon the insole, said device and carrier being relatively movable in response to resistance of the shoe to the movement of the device heightwise of the last, and means for preventing reverse relative movement of said device and carrier until after the device has been retracted from over the shoe bottom by a reverse swinging movement of the carrier.

38. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper arranged to grip the margin of an upper and pull the upper over a last and pro vided with means for wiping the margin of the upper inwardly over an insole on the last, a carrier supporting said gripper and mounted for swinging movement to carry the gripper inwardly over the insole with a component of movement of the gripper heightwise of the last toward its bottom face to press the margin of the upper upon the insole, said gripper and carrier being relatively movable in response to pressure of the bottom of the shoe on the wiping means as the margin of the upper is wiped inwardly, a spring for yieldingly opposing such relative movement, and a device arranged to prevent reverse relative movement of the gripper and carrier until after the gripper has been retracted from over the shoe bottom by a reverse swinging movement of the carrier.

39. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a device for gripping an upper and pulling it over a last and for laying the margin of the upper inwardly over and upon an insole on the last, said device comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of the upper between them, and means for relaxing the pressure of said jaws on the margin of the upper in response to pressure of the bottom of the shoe on said device in the laying of the upper over the insole.

40. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a device for gripping an upper and pulling it over a last and for laying the margin of the upper inwardly over and upon an insole on the last, said device comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of the upper between them, a carrier supporting said device and movable to force it inwardly over the insole while pressing the margin of the upper upon the insole, said device and carrier being relatively movable in response to pressure of the bottom of the shoe on the device in the laying of the upper over the insole, and means for relaxing the pressure of said jaws on the margin of the upper in response to such relative movement of the device and the carrier.

41. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a device for gripping an upper and pulling it over a last and for laying the margin of the upper inwardly over and upon an insole on the last, said device comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of the upper between them, a carrier supporting said device and mounted for swinging movement to carry the device inwardLv over the insole with a component of movement thereof heightwise of the last toward its bottom face to press the margin of the upper upon the insole, said device and carrier being relatively movable in response to resistance of the shoe to such movement of the device heightwise of the last, and mechanism controlling one of said jaws to cause them to release the upper in response to such relative movement of the device and the carrier.

42. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper between them and for pulling the upper over a last, means'for moving said gripper inwardly over the bottom of the last with a component of movement thereof heightwise pf the last toward its bottom face, and mechanism for effecting a relative opening movement of said jaws in response to resistance of the shoe to such movement of the gripper heightwise of the last.

43. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper between them and for pulling the upper over a last, a carrier supporting said gripper and movable to carry it inwardly over the bottom of the last with a component of movement thereof heightwise of the last toward its bottom face, said gripper and carrier being relatively movable in response to resistance of the shoe to such movement of the gripper heightwise of the last, and mechanism controlling one of said jaws to cause it to relax its pressure on the upper in response to such relative movement of the gripper and the carrier.

44. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a gripper comprising a pair of jaws for gripping the margin of an upper between them and for pulling the upper over a last, a carrier supporting said gripper and mounted for swinging movement to carry the jaws inwardly over the bottom of the last with a component of movement thereof heightwise oi the last toward its bottom face, a

said gripper and carrier being relatively movable in response to resistance of the shoe to such movement of the jaws heightwise of the last as the jaws are carried farther inwardly, and jaw-closing mechanism mounted to swing about the same axis as said carrier and arranged to cause the jaws to relax their pressure on the margin of the upper upon such relative movement of the gripper and the carrier.

45. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the toe end of an upper on a last, a jaw carrier mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to cause said jaws to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted on said jaw carrier for moving one of the jaws toward the other to grip the upper, an arm mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to operate said bell-crank lever and also to swing said jaw carrier, a member for operating said arm, and a spring through which the arm is operated by said member.

46. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the toe end of an upper on a last, a jaw carrier mounted for swinging movement lengthwise oi. the last to cause said jaws to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted on said jaw carrier for moving one of the jaws toward the other to grip the upper, an arm mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to operate said bell-crank lever and also to swing said jaw carrier, adse'cond bell-crank lever for operating said arm, and means for operating said second bell-crank lever.

4'1. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the toe end of an upper on a last, a jaw carrier mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to cause said jaws to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted on said jaw carrier for moving one of the jaws toward the other to grip the upper, an arm mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to operate said bell-crank lever and also to swing said jaw carrier, a second bell-crank lever for operating said arm, a spring for transmitting force yieldingly to the arm from said second bell-crank lever, and a treadle-operated rod movable lengthwise to operate the second bell-crank lever.

48. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the toe end of an upper on a last, a jaw carrier mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to cause said jaws to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted on said jaw carrier for moving one of the jaws toward the other to grip the upper, an arm mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to operate said bell-crank lever and also to swing said jaw carrier, a second bell-crank lever for operating said arm, and a device arranged to act on said second bell-crank lever to lock the jaw carrier in upper-pulling position.

49. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a pair of jaws for gripping the toe end of an upper on a last, a jaw carrier mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last to cause said jaws to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted on said jaw carrier for moving one of the jaws toward the other to grip the upper, and an arm mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the last and having a pin-and-slot connection with said bell-crank lever for operating the latter and also for operating the jaw carrier by force transmitted thereto through said bellcrank lever.

50. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the toe end of an upper on a last and movable lengthwise of the last to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted for swinging movement about an axis extending widthwise of the last to operate said toe gripper, a spring for transmitting, force from one arm of the bell-crank lever to the toe gripper, and operating means arranged to act on the other arm of said bell-crank lever.

51. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the toe end of an upper on a last positioned bottom upward and movable lengthwise of the last to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted for swinging movement about an axis extending widthwise of the last to operate said toe gripper, and a treadleoperated rod movable upwardly to operate said bell-crank lever.

52. In a machine for shaping uppers over lasts, a toe gripper arranged to grip the toe end of an upper on a last positioned bottom upward and movable lengthwise of the last to pull the upper, a bell-crank lever mounted for swinging movement about an axis extending widthwise of the last to'operate said toe gripper, a treadle-operated rod movable upwardly to operate said bellcrank lever, a spring for transmitting force from said bell-crank lever to the toe gripper, and a device arranged to lock said bell-crank lever against retractlve movement after operating the toe gripper to maintain the upper under tension.

BERNHARD'I' JORGENSEN. 

